Tension Set Rings: The Complete Guide
A tension set ring is one of the most unique ways to showcase a diamond or gemstone. Unlike traditional settings that surround the stone with metal in the form of claws a bezel or a halo, this individual design uses precisely engineered pressure within the ring to secure the stone, creating its signature floating diamond’ appearance.
At MDT DESIGN, tension setting has become one of our specialties. Our first tension-set piece was created in 1996 and we have since continued to develop and perfect this technique ever since. Today, the MDT DESIGN collection of tension set rings includes more than 100 different designs, ranging from refined classics to split bands, asymmetrical settings, coloured diamonds, tension-style rings and award-winning jewellery pieces.
This guide explores how tension set rings work, the different types of tension settings and the design possibilities available when choosing or customising your own tension set.
What Is a Tension Set Ring?
A tension set ring showcases a setting style that secures a diamond or gemstone between two opposing sections of precious metal using a precisely controlled engineered pressure.
Rather than traditionally surrounding the entire gemstone with claws or prongs or other conventional setting styles, the stone is secured within carefully prepared contact points in the ring. Resulting in a larger exposure of the gemstone itself and creating the illusion that it is suspended – or floating – within the design.
This intricate technique requires careful engineering because factors such as- strength, shape and pressure within the ring all contribute to securing the stone. A true, secure tension set ring must be handmade in order to ensure it is strong enough to wear.
Tension Set, Pressure Set or Floating Diamond Ring?
Each of these terms are used interchangeably when referring to this technique, but whilst they refer to the same thing, they each describe slightly different aspects of the design.
Tension set ring is the established/ most common name for the setting style.
Pressure set ring refers to the pressure that is used in order to secure the gemstone.
Floating diamond ring describes the visual effect created by the setting. Given that there are no conventional claws surrounding the diamond, the stone appears to float between the two sides of the ring.
Put simply:
Tension within the worked metal creates the pressure that holds the gemstone securely in place.
What Are the Different Types of Tension Set Rings?
Tension setting does not refer to merely one ring design. It is a setting technique that can be interpreted through many different designs.
MDT DESIGN’s extensive collection demonstrates just how diverse tension setting can be, from classic minimal designs to split bands, asymmetrical aesthetics to coloured gemstones and more elaborate diamond-set pieces.
Classic Tension Set Rings
The classic tension set ring features one single diamond or gemstone between two opposing sides of the band.
The result is balanced, clean and made to showcase the centre stone, whilst the open setting allows the diamond to be viewed from multiple angles. Exposing the stone to more light- often resulting in a more brilliant appearing stone.
Curved Tension Set Diamond Engagement Ring Side View C1026
Curved Tension Set Diamond Engagement Ring Top View C1026
View the Tension Set Diamond Ring with Rounded Band
Split Band Tension Set Rings
The split band tension set ring divides the band as it approaches the centre stone, introducing additional space and structure around the diamond.
Splitting the band can create a stronger architectural appearance and enhance the design by adding more interest- whilst still retaining the openness associated with tension setting and utilising the same tension technique. MDT DESIGN has developed numerous interpretations of the split-band tension setting across different metals, proportions and diamond-set variations.
Split Band Diamond Tension Set Ring C1042
Diamond Tension Set Design with Grain Set Split Band C952
Explore Tension Set Engagement Rings
Half Split Band Tension Set Rings
A half split band tension set ring introduces the split on one side of the centre stone rather than mirroring it on both sides.
This creates intentional asymmetry and movement while maintaining the clean, contemporary character of a tension setting.
Classic, half split and full split bands have all formed part of MDT DESIGN’s approach to tension-set jewellery.
Marquise Tension Set Diamond Engagement Ring with Split Band C652
Asymmetrical Tension Set Ring in Yellow Gold
Flared & Tapered Tension Set Rings
In a flared or tapered tension set ring, the width of the band changes as it approaches the centre stone.
This allows the precious metal itself to become an important part of the design, directing the eye towards the diamond and creating anything from a subtle transition to a stronger sculptural statement.
View the Tension Set Round Diamond Tapered Ring
Tension Set Rings With Diamond-Set Bands
A tension-set centre diamond doesn’t mean the rest of the ring needs to remain plain.
Additional diamonds can be incorporated into the band using techniques such as channel or grain setting, combining the open appearance of the tension-set centre stone with additional brilliance.
MDT DESIGN’s collection includes channel-set, grain-set and split-band tension designs featuring additional diamonds.
Wide Tension Diamond Ring in Matt Yellow Gold
Diamond Tension Set Ring with Pave Set Band C1016
Tension Set Coloured Diamond & Gemstone Rings
Tension setting isn’t limited to white diamonds.
Provided the gemstone and design are appropriate for the setting, colour can become a defining feature of a tension-set ring.
MDT DESIGN has created tension-set jewellery featuring pink diamonds, yellow diamonds and sapphires, allowing the colour and character of the stone to become an integral part of the design.
Tension Set Pink Diamond Ring With Diamonds On Edge C827
Tension Set Cushion Cut Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond Ring C582
Blue Sapphire Tension Set Ring with Flared Band in Platinum C1221
View the Tension Set Sapphire Engagement Ring
What Is a Tension-Style Ring?
Not all rings that create the appearance of a floating gemstone uses exactly the same method construction.
A true tension setting uses the engineered pressure within the precious metal to secure the gemstone without conventional claws surrounding it.
A tension-style setting can create a similar open or floating appearance while incorporating additional structural support as part of the setting- such as an under bezel (a small piece of metal placed below the stone, bridging the gap between the two sides of metal that usually secure the stone in a tension set) creating more security.
Which specific construction is appropriate depends on factors including the gemstone, its size, the dimensions of the ring, the design, the finger size and the person who will be wearing it.
At MDT DESIGN, we take all of these factors into consideration individually. We don’t apply one construction to every ring simply because the finished designs share a similar aesthetic.
Are Tension Set Rings Secure?
Yes. A properly designed and manufactured tension set ring is engineered to securely hold its gemstone in place.
The security of a tension setting depends on the way the ring is made, the condition and strength of the metal, the precision of the setting and the suitability of the gemstone and design. In order to create a secure tension set- the ring must be handmade.
MDT DESIGN tension-set rings are individually handmade in our Melbourne workshop. Our handmaking process allows the precious metal to be worked forged and hardened, giving our jewellers the control required to engineer the strength and pressure necessary for the setting.
As with all fine jewellery, tension set rings should be treated appropriately and regularly inspected for signs of knocks, wear or damage.
MDT DESIGN offers complimentary lifetime servicing for all our pieces, with regular inspections allowing our jewellers to check the condition of the ring and setting over its lifetime.
Can Tension Set Rings Be Made in Gold?
Yes. Tension set rings can be made in gold as well as platinum.
MDT DESIGN creates tension-set designs in 18ct white gold, 18ct yellow gold, 18ct rose gold and platinum, with many individual designs able to be customised by metal type and colour.
Metal choice isn’t simply an aesthetic consideration in tension setting. The design, dimensions and construction of the ring need to work together to create an appropriate setting for the chosen gemstone.
Explore Tension Set Engagement Rings
Can Tension Set Rings Be Custom Made?
Absolutely.
Tension setting can be adapted through the diamond or gemstone, stone size, precious metal, band width, profile, split-band construction, asymmetry, surface finish and additional diamond setting.
Our existing collection can provide the starting point, or our jewellers can develop an individual tension-set design around you and your chosen stone.
The setting technique may be the starting point. The finished ring can still be entirely your own.
Design Your Own Engagement Ring
MDT DESIGN Tension Set Specialists
MDT DESIGN has specialised in handmade tension-set jewellery for decades.
Our first tension-set piece was designed and handmade in 1996, and the technique has since become a defining part of our work across engagement rings, wedding rings, coloured diamond jewellery, custom designs and award-winning pieces.
Today, the MDT DESIGN website showcases more than 100 tension-set ring designs, from understated floating diamond settings to split bands, asymmetrical forms, coloured diamonds and highly individual designs.
Every MDT DESIGN tension-set ring is backed by decades of knowledge and the experience of jewellers who understand not only how the finished ring should look, but the engineering required to make the design possible.
Handmade in Melbourne. Engineered by jewellers. Designed to make the diamond appear to do the impossible.
Explore Tension Set Engagement Rings
Tension Set Ring FAQs
What holds a tension set diamond in place?
A tension-set diamond is secured by precisely engineered pressure within the ring. Unlike a conventional claw setting, a true tension setting leaves much of the gemstone exposed, creating its characteristic floating appearance.
Is a tension set ring the same as a pressure set ring?
The terms are sometimes used interchangeably. Tension setting is the established name for the setting style, while pressure describes the force used to secure the gemstone. Tension-set rings may also be referred to as floating diamond rings because of their distinctive appearance.
Why does the diamond look like it is floating?
A tension setting does not require conventional claws surrounding the diamond. This leaves much of the stone visible from above and from the side, creating the illusion that the diamond is suspended within the ring.
Can tension set rings have split bands?
Yes. Classic, half split and full split bands are all possible approaches to tension-set design. MDT DESIGN has created examples of each, alongside asymmetrical and diamond-set variations.
Can tension set rings use coloured diamonds or gemstones?
Yes, provided the gemstone and design are appropriate for the setting. MDT DESIGN’s collection includes tension-set pink diamonds, yellow diamonds and sapphires, as well as traditional white diamonds.
Can a tension set engagement ring be customised?
Yes. Depending on the design, elements including the stone, stone size, metal type, metal colour, band proportions and additional detailing can be customised. MDT DESIGN also creates completely custom tension-set rings in our Melbourne workshop.
Are all floating diamond rings true tension settings?
No. Some rings create a similar floating appearance while incorporating additional support into the setting. These may be described as tension-style rings rather than true tension settings.
