How to Choose a Custom Engagement Ring Jeweller in Melbourne: A Jeweller’s Advice

Choosing an engagement ring is a big decision. Choosing the person who will make it can be just as important.

Melbourne has no shortage of jewellers offering custom engagement rings, but the way those rings are designed and manufactured can vary substantially. Two rings may look similar although couldn’t differ more in their construction, diamond quality, weight, durability and aftercare.

I have been a jeweller for more than 23 years, and one of the most important pieces of advice I can give is simple: understand EXACTLY what it is that you are buying.

An engagement ring should ideally last more than a single lifetime. Before choosing a custom engagement ring jeweller in Melbourne, here are the things I believe you should consider.

1. Find Out Who Is Actually Making Your Engagement Ring

One of the first questions I would ask is:

Who is actually making my ring, and where is it being made?

Ask whether the company has its own designers, jewellers and workshop. Is the ring being made locally, outsourced to another jewellery workshop or manufactured offshore and sold under the retailer’s name?

The person advising you should be able to explain exactly how your ring will be manufactured and why a particular design changes and making methods are being recommended.

At MDT DESIGN, our workshop is located on-site at our Melbourne boutique. Our designers work directly with our jewellers, including my father Nicholas and me, so technical questions can be discussed directly during the design process.

Kosta’s Expert Jeweller Tip

Ask exactly how your ring will be made and where each stage takes place. If the jeweller you’re working with can’t confidently explain the manufacturing process, I’d want to know why.

2. Understand What “Custom” Actually Means

The word custom only refers to the design element but can be a different manufacturing processes, all of which are still classified as custom made. 

For most jewellers, a ring can would be designed or modified using CAD software and then cast. Existing designs can also be easily customised by changing the diamond shape, dimensions, metal or setting on the existing CAD image or one can easily be recreated.

A genuinely handmade custom engagement ring takes a very different path.

At MDT DESIGN, handmade means the ring is made at the jeweller’s bench from precious metal that is rolled, forged, shaped and worked entirely by hand. We don’t use CAD/CAM or casting to manufacture our jewellery.

You may also hear the term “handcrafted”, which is used in different ways throughout the jewellery industry and can include pieces that have been CAD-designed, cast and subsequently finished or assembled by hand.

That’s why I think the most useful question is simply:

How exactly will my ring be made?

Kosta’s Expert Jeweller Tip

Don’t get too caught up in the terminology. You should ask, “Will my ring be individually handmade at the jeweller’s bench, or will it be CAD-designed and cast?”

3. Consider Construction, Not Just Appearance

An engagement ring needs to do more than look beautiful when it’s new. It needs to withstand years of regular wear.

When we make a ring entirely by hand, the precious metal used is hammered and forged creating a work hardened durable piece naturally through the manufacturing process. This process of work-hardening the metal allows us to produce strong engagement rings and jewellery designed with longevity in mind.

An experienced jeweller should always consider and present other options you may not have thought about: band width and thickness, setting construction, diamond security, future resizing, whether a wedding ring will sit flush beside it and whether the design suits the wearer’s lifestyle.

On occasion this may mean recommending a small change to a design to make it more practical for everyday wear and therefore increasing the rings life. I always would rather explain the options from the beginning than make something I don’t believe will last over time.

4. Make Sure You’re Being Educated, Not Just Sold To

You don’t need to fully understand every aspect about jewellery and the making process before walking into a jewellery store. That’s our job! It is also our job to educate you about how your jeweller is made and what it comprises of. Such a important and often costly purchase should be made with all the information necessary so that you can make an educated decision.

A good jeweller or designer should explain all your options, be able to answer any questions you have and help you to understand why one choice may be more suitable than another.

If somebody tells us, “I have absolutely no idea what my partner likes,” we can start by looking at different ring styles, different diamond shapes and metals to identify what appeals to them most.

Inspiration and photos from online such as Instagram or Pinterest can also be useful to refer to. Rather than simply copying another ring, a jeweller should be able to identify the common elements you are like and use them as inspiration for an original custom design.

We also have the love at first sight guarantee to make sure whatever you buy or have made, is completely to the wearers liking. 

5. Don’t Assume a Diamond Certificate Tells the Whole Story

If you’re buying a diamond engagement ring, you’re also relying on your jeweller to help you choose the perfect diamond for you.

A grading report from a respected grading laboratory like GIA, can provide valuable information, but a certificate alone doesn’t tell you whether a diamond is a good example of its grade.

Two diamonds with the exact same colour and clarity grades can still look different when compared to with the naked eye. Two SI1 clarity diamonds for example, may contain inclusions that differ in their type, size, position and also visibility. a messier stone 

I often reject certified diamonds that I don’t believe are a nice example of the grade I’m looking for.

A good jeweller shouldn’t simply just find a certificate that matches your requested specifications. They should inspect the actual diamond and explain why they believe it is a good stone.

Kosta’s Expert Jeweller Tip

If two diamonds have the same colour and clarity grade but very different prices, ask your jeweller to show you why. A similar certificate between 2 stones doesn’t necessarily mean they are similar diamonds.

6. Don’t Compare Jewellers on Price Alone

Everyone has a budget to stick to but make sure you’re comparing the same thing and what both the companies are offering.

Differences in price can often reflect the amount of gold or platinum used in the finished product, the manufacturing method, diamond quality, finishing and the aftercare that comes with the piece.

Likewise, an expensive ring doesn’t automatically mean it is a well-made ring.

Rather than simply asking which jeweller is cheapest, you should understand what you’re actually getting for your money and how the ring has been made.

7. Research the Jeweller – Then Visit Them

Reviews are useful and can help to narrow down the jewellers you choose, but don’t look at the star rating alone.

Read what customers actually say about workmanship, repairs, communication, service and aftercare. You should consider how many reviews the rating is based on, how long the jeweller has been stablished for, have examples of their previous work and whether the people behind the business are visible and accountable for what they are selling.

Online research is an excellent way to create a shortlist of jewellers to speak with. For something as significant as an engagement ring, I always recommend visiting the jeweller.

Meet the people who may be making your ring. Handle different pieces to feel the quality and weight, compare diamonds and ask as many questions as you can. If the business says it has its own workshop, ask them to elaborate about it. Is it a workshop filled with computers and technology for mass production? 

8. Ask About Aftercare Before You Buy

An engagement ring isn’t a purchase that ends when you leave the store.

Over its lifetime it will need cleaning and inspections, and often may require resizing, maintenance or repair. White gold will also require rhodium plating.

Before committing to a custom ring, you should understand what warranty is provided and what it covers, whether cleaning and inspections are complimentary and how long it takes, who performs any repairs and resizing needed, whether a valuation is supplied and what happens if your partner doesn’t like the finished ring.

At MDT DESIGN, we provide lifetime complimentary ongoing aftercare because we expect the jewellery we make to be worn for decades.

9. Think About the Wedding Ring Now

If your engagement ring and wedding ring will eventually be worn together, the look and feel between the 2 should be considered during the design process.

Will a straight wedding ring sit flush against the engagement ring? Will a fitted band be needed to work around settings? Could the two rings rub against each other and cause unnecessary wear?

Even if you’re not yet thinking about the wedding, considering the wedding ring now can prevent you having to compromise on both the design and structure of the ring. 

10. Ask the Same Questions When Comparing Jewellers

If you plan to visit a few custom jewellers in Melbourne, asking these following questions can make comparisons much easier:

• Who will actually be making my ring?

• Where will it be made?

• How will it be manufactured? 

• Who selects and inspects the diamonds or gemstones?

• What warranty and aftercare services are provided?

• What happens if my partner doesn’t like the finished ring?

A knowledgeable jeweller should welcome these questions and not shy away.

Kosta’s Expert Jeweller Tip

Choose a jeweller who takes the time to explain the differences, can answer the difficult questions and makes sure you understand exactly what you’re buying.

How Long Does a Custom Engagement Ring Take?

Timeframes vary depending on the design, jeweller and manufacturing process.

At MDT DESIGN, we generally allow approximately four to six weeks to create a custom engagement ring by hand.

I’ve made rings within the same week and, on rare occasions during my career, even the next day. But those are exceptions.

If you have a particular proposal date in mind, speak with your jeweller early so the design, diamond selection and manufacturing process don’t need to be unnecessarily rushed.

My Advice After More Than 23 Years as a Jeweller

One of the biggest mistakes I see is people not fully understanding the quality of what they’re buying until it is too late.

A ring can easily look fantastic when it’s new. That doesn’t necessarily tell you how well it was made or how it will perform after years of everyday wear.

So ask questions. Understand the manufacturing process. Look beyond the diamond certificate and consider who will look after the ring in the many expected years or wear ahead.

If I could give somebody only one piece of advice before choosing who will make their engagement ring, it would be:

Understand exactly what you’re buying.

An engagement ring isn’t just for the proposal. Ideally, it’s a piece that will stay with you – and perhaps your family – for a lifetime.

Frequently Asked Questions About Choosing a Custom Engagement Ring Jeweller

How do I choose a custom engagement ring jeweller in Melbourne?

You should look at who will actually be making your ring, where and how it will be made, the jeweller’s and the company’s experience, diamond expertise and the aftercare provided. Most importantly, you should choose someone who is willing to clearly explain what you’re buying.

What is the difference between a handmade and cast engagement ring?

A handmade engagement ring is made at the jeweller’s bench by working, forging and shaping precious metal by hand. A cast ring is produced by pouring molten metal into a mould, often created from a CAD-designed model. MDT DESIGN engagement rings are individually handmade in our on-site Melbourne workshop without CAD/CAM or casting.

Is a custom engagement ring more expensive than a ready-made ring?

Not necessarily. Price depends on the diamond or gemstone, precious metal, amount of metal used, design complexity and manufacturing method.

How long does a custom engagement ring take to make?

At MDT DESIGN, we generally allow around four to six weeks to design and handmake a custom engagement ring. More complex designs or individual circumstances can affect the timeframe.

Should I choose a jeweller with their own workshop?

Knowing where your ring is made provides greater transparency over the manufacturing process. Having jewellers and designers working together can also be valuable for custom design, resizing, servicing and future repairs.