Engagement Rings Melbourne: What I’ve Learnt After More Than 20 Years at the Bench

By Kosta Theochari – Managing Director, Jeweller & Diamond Grader, MDT DESIGN

When people walk into our Melbourne Jewellery boutique, MDT DESIGN, looking for an engagement ring, they often think they’re there to choose and find their perfect diamond.

In reality, they’re usually making a much more important decision.

They’re choosing the ring that will mark one of the most important moments of their lives.

After beginning my jewellery apprenticeship in 2003 and qualifying as a Diamond Grader in 2007, I’ve had the privilege of helping thousands of couples choose, design and create engagement rings in Melbourne. During that time I’ve learnt that while diamond shapes, trends and technologies continue to change, the reason people buy an engagement ring never does.

It’s about creating something individual, unique and deeply personal.

Over the years I’ve answered hundreds, if not thousands, of questions about diamonds, precious metals, custom design and how an engagement ring should be made. These are all conversations I have almost every day, and I hope sharing some of them helps make your own engagement ring journey just that little bit easier.

Master Jeweller Kosta Theochari of MDT DESIGN On the Bench at MDT DESIGN making handmade engagement rings

The First Question’s I Ask

People often expect my first question to be about the budget.

99% of the time it isn’t!

Instead, I usually ask, “Tell me about the person who’s going to be wearing the ring.”

That answer tells me far more about the client than what a diamond certificate ever could.

Do they love classic or art deco styled jewellery, are they drawn towards something unique, do they like the look of something modern? Are they very hands on? Do they wear their jewellery every day, or will this be their first special piece?

The perfect best engagement rings aren’t chosen because they are fashionable at the time. They’re chosen as they suit the person wearing them perfectly. Trends will always come and go, but a well-designed engagement ring should still feel right decades from now. 

I want this to be something you will look back on decades from now and make you smile at the decision you made.

The Biggest Misconception About Diamonds

One of the biggest misconceptions I see is that a grading certificate will tell you everything you need to know about a diamond.

Yes, a diamond certificate is incredibly important, but it isn’t the whole story.

I’ve have compared many diamonds with the same grade that looked noticeably different when viewed side by side. Some appeared to have more lustre, some had more life to them, and others simply stood out the moment you looked at them.

That’s why I always encourage people to see diamonds in person whenever possible.

A certificate helps you understand a diamond but our eyes help you choose it.

Kosta’s Tip

When you compare diamonds, ask to see them in different lighting. Jewellery showroom lights are designed to make everything sparkle from every angle. Natural daylight will reveal a diamond’s true personality.

Master Jeweller Kosta Theochari

Why We Still Handmake Every Engagement Ring

This is probably one of the questions I’m most passionate about.

At MDT DESIGN, every single engagement ring is handmade on-site in our Melbourne workshop.

Could we use faster manufacturing methods?

Of course we could, but at a cost. 

We’ve chosen not to cast and mass produce, because we believe an engagement ring deserves more than efficiency.

Handmaking a ring allows our in-house Melbourne jewellers carefully build every component of the ring from precious metal, refining each detail as the piece slowly comes together. It does take more time, more experience and more skill, but it’s an approach that reflects everything we believe about quality.

An engagement ring isn’t something you buy every year.

Ideally, it’s something you’ll wear for the rest of your life.

This is why we focus on creating jewellery that’s made with longevity in mind, not simply what’s quickest or easiest to make.

jeweller rolls down metal for custom design ring

Natural or Lab-Grown Diamonds?

This is one of the most common questions I receive today, and my answer is not always the same.

Before choosing either option, you need to understand the differences.

Natural and lab-grown diamonds are both real diamonds. They share the exact same chemical composition and are visually almost impossible to tell apart to the eye. 

The differences are in their origin, rarity and market value both now and in the future.

Much like myself, some clients love the story of a natural diamond that formed over billions of years beneath the earth. One of mother nature’s special gifts. 

Others appreciate that a lab-grown diamond will allow them to purchase a much larger diamond within a much smaller budget.

There isn’t a universal “right” choice for these.

My place isn’t to tell you which diamond to buy.

It is to explain the differences honestly; answer your questions and help you choose the option that’s right for you and your fiancé to be. 

Why a Custom Design Is So Rewarding

One of the most enjoyable parts of my job is helping people design and create something that doesn’t exist yet.

Some clients come to the boutique with inspiration photos.

Others bring an heirloom family diamond that has been passed down through generations.

Some simply just have an idea they can’t quite put a finger on.

This is where the custom design process begins.

The best custom engagement rings aren’t about copying another design, and in all honesty, if you love someone’s design, support them and don’t copy their work. Custom engagement rings are about understanding the wearer, refining the details from big to small, and creating something that nobody else has.

When a finished ring is presented and the client says, “That’s exactly what I had in mind,” it’s a reminder of why I still enjoy this profession after all these years. 

The extra push for me are the many clients I have had that say, “that’s even better than I had imagined”. They had a vision, and I managed to design and create something that exceeded that. Knowing they will be wearing the ring for the rest of their life is a very special feeling for me. 

What Repairing Jewellery Has Taught Me

One of the advantages of spending many years repairing, restoring and remodelling engagement rings and jewellery is that you learn what will and will not stand the test of time.

It’s easy to create a ring that looks beautiful when it’s brand new.

The untold challenge is creating one that still looks beautiful after ten, twenty or even fifty years of wear.

Every repair to a ring tells a story. Sometimes it’s simply years of everyday use and the claws need rebuilding or the setting remade, other times it’s that the ring wasn’t designed for the way it would be worn. With my father Nicholas having started in 1981, we see our jewellery return to the workshop after decades and has taught me to think beyond how a ring looks today. I’m always thinking years ahead about how it will perform. 

Does the ring take a wedding band flush to its side? Are the claws sturdy enough? How high is the setting sitting up? How well is the setting connected to the band? All things that automatically run through my brain. 

That’s why I believe good jewellery isn’t just about appearance. It’s about thoughtful design, quality materials and skilled craftsmanship working seamlessly together.

Platinum or White Gold?

It’s a question I’m asked almost every day.

The truth is, both platinum and white gold make beautiful engagement rings. The right choice can depend on the person wearing it.

Platinum comes or of the ground naturally white, dense and exceptionally durable, making it an excellent option for everyday wear, even more so when handmade. White gold remains a popular choice because of its bright appearance and versatility. A lot of clints stick to white gold as they want anything gold, doesn’t matter its colour. 

I generally will recommend platinum, but I do explain the strengths of each and helping clients decide which suits their lifestyle, preferences and budget. I understand what is better, but it is my mission for you to also understand, after all, this is your ring. 

The best engagement ring isn’t the one I would choose.

It’s the one that’s right for you!

hands holding three bars of precious metal. Appealingly platinum, white, rose and yellow gold.

The Biggest Mistake I See People Make

If I could offer one piece of advice to anyone buying an engagement ring, it would be this:

Don’t rush the decision.

An engagement ring isn’t just another purchase. It’s something you’ll hopefully wear every day for the rest of your life and passed don’t through the generations. 

Take the time to compare diamonds in person. Ask lots of questions. Learn about the differences between metals. aim for quality over quantity. Understand how the ring will be made and don’t be afraid to seek a second opinion.

The right jeweller won’t pressure you into making a decision.

They’ll give you the education and confidence to make the right one.

Kosta’s Tip

If you leave an appointment with a jeweller and feel you are more informed than when you arrived, you’ve probably found a jeweller who genuinely wants to help and has the knowledge to do so.

Why I Love Being a Jeweller

A lot often think that jewellery is all about diamonds and gold.

For me, it’s always been more about people.

I’ve had the privilege of meeting couples at the beginning of their lives together, helping redesign treasured family heirlooms and seeing clients return years later for wedding rings, anniversary gifts and jewellery for the next generation.

Watching those milestones unfold is the most rewarding parts of my career.

An engagement ring isn’t simply a piece of jewellery.

It becomes part of a couple’s story marking a special moment in time.

Knowing that something we’ve handmade in our Melbourne workshop may be worn for decades and perhaps one day passed on to future generations, is a responsibility I have never taken lightly.

Master jeweller and designer kosta theochari in the on site melbourne jewellery workshop in 2010

What I Hope Every Couple Takes Away

If there’s one thing I’ve learnt after more than twenty years as a jeweller, it’s that the best engagement rings aren’t always the biggest, the most expensive or even the most fashionable.

They’re the ones that feel personal, individually designed and handmade.

These are the rings that reflect the person wearing them perfectly.

Whether you style leans towards a timeless solitaire, a custom sapphire engagement ring or something completely unique and modern, my advice is always the same: choose quality over quantity, choose handmade craftsmanship of mass production cast pieces, and choose a jeweller you know you can trust.

The ring itself is important.

The relationship you build with the people creating it is just as valuable.

Thank You

If you’ve taken the time to read this article, thank you.

I hope it’s given you a little more confidence as you begin your search for an engagement ring.

Whether you eventually choose MDT DESIGN or another jeweller, my wish is simply that you end up with a ring you’ll still love many years from now.

If you’d like to see how our engagement rings are handmade, compare natural and lab-grown diamonds, or discuss a custom design, I’d be delighted to welcome you to our Collins Street showroom.

Sometimes the best place to start isn’t with a ring.

It’s with a conversation.

Kosta Theochari

Managing Director | Jeweller | Diamond Grader

MDT DESIGN

Image of MDT DESIGN master jeweller Kosta Theochari wearing a suit photographed Melbourne Jewellery Boutique and workshop

About Kosta Theochari

Kosta Theochari is the Managing Director of MDT DESIGN, a qualified jeweller and diamond grader with more than 20 years of experience creating fine jewellery. After beginning his apprenticeship in 2003 and completing his Diamond Grading qualification in 2007, he has dedicated his career to designing, manufacturing, repairing and remodelling handmade jewellery. Working alongside the experienced team in MDT DESIGN’s on-site Melbourne workshop, Kosta specialises in handmade engagement rings, custom jewellery, diamond selection and helping couples create pieces designed to last for generations.

Areas of Expertise

  • Handmade engagement rings
  • Custom engagement ring design
  • Natural and lab-grown diamonds
  • Diamond grading and selection
  • Platinum and gold jewellery
  • Jewellery remodelling
  • Jewellery repairs and restoration
  • Wedding rings
  • Coloured gemstones, including sapphires

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to make a handmade engagement ring?

Most engagement rings at MDT DESIGN are handmade in our Melbourne workshop within approximately four to six weeks. More intricate custom designs or specially sourced gemstones may require additional time.

Can I use my own family heirloom diamond?

In many cases, yes. Existing diamonds and gemstones can often be incorporated into a new handmade engagement ring after they’ve been professionally assessed by our jewellers.

Do you offer both natural and lab-grown diamonds?

Yes. We offer both natural and lab-grown diamonds. We take the time to explain the advantages and disadvantages of each, helping you choose the option that best suits you.

Why choose a handmade engagement ring?

Handmade engagement rings allow an experienced jewellers to carefully craft every component of the design. At MDT DESIGN, every engagement ring is handmade in our on-site Melbourne workshop on Collins Street, giving us complete control over quality, craftsmanship and finishing.

Why should I choose a Melbourne jeweller instead of buying an engagement ring online?

Choosing an engagement ring is a significant decision, and seeing diamonds, gemstones and craftsmanship in person can make a remarkable difference. Visiting a local Melbourne jeweller also gives you the opportunity to ask questions, compare options side by side and build a relationship with the people who will create and care for your jewellery long after the proposal.

Where are MDT DESIGN engagement rings made?

Every engagement ring is handmade in our on-site Melbourne workshop at our Collins Street boutique. Unlike many jewellers who outsource manufacturing, our experienced jewellers create each piece under the one roof.

Can I design my own engagement ring in Melbourne?

Absolutely. At MDT DESIGN, every engagement ring is handmade in our on-site Melbourne workshop, allowing us to create completely custom designs. Whether you have a detailed idea, inspiration images or simply know the style you like, we’ll work with you to create a ring that’s uniquely yours.